Color Challenge

One of the best parts of quilting is playing with color. Color is intoxicating — it’s hard to not be happy when I show up to work every day surrounded by a vibrant rainbow. And one of the most challenging, but rewarding, hurdles to quilting is mastering your eye for color. Some of us are naturals (like Karen!) and some of us need a little coaching. A good place to start is Jean Wells’ Intuitive Color & Design. It gives you an in-depth guide for selecting fabric combinations that will really make your quilts unique and pleasing to the eye.

We’ve decided to share the fun of creating great color/fabric combinations by doing a few color story challenges. Which takes us to our introduction of our newest toy – Pinterest. Pinterest is like an online inspiration board — a place for you to collect photos of things that you love, organized by categories. We’ve been hard at work (aka having a lot of fun!) creating “boards” of our best stuff. Take a look…

On top of being a fun thing to do, Pinterest is a great way for us to connect with you and see all your fantastic ideas. So we’re creating a little challenge to get you in on the fun. We’ve created a Color Challenge: Chartreuse + Grey + White board with an initial inspiration photo to get you started. The idea is to find fabrics and other photos that tell that same color story. If you were ambitious, you could ultimately make a quilt that captures the same feeling. We will be doing more color story challenges in the future, so stay tuned for other great color combinations.

All you need to do to get started is go to www.pinterest.com and Request an Invite. It’s free! It’ll take about a day to get your invitation to join and create an account.  Then, send us an email (quiltexp@cableone.net) to add you to our color challenges, and we’ll make you a collaborator on all our color story boards so you can pin your ideas!

Happy Pinning!
– Stacy

Gone Fishin’

It’s been a year. Can you believe it? I’ve been working at the quilt shop and learning this quilting stuff for a full year. It’s gone by too fast. I would have expected to consider myself beyond a beginner level after a year, but somehow I’d say I’m still pretty new to the actual nuts and bolts of sewing. I haven’t even gone beyond making squares. But, hey, let’s give me a break. With work, a dog, planning a wedding and buying a house this summer, I’ve been pretty busy. But I’m back in the game as I finally unpacked my sewing room last weekend. Granted, it’s still painted two-toned magenta shades courtesy of the six-year-old girl that occupied the room before me, but at least I’ve got all the required stations in place. Give me another three months (that’s about the speed I’m workin’ at these days) and I’ll get around to making it feel like my own space.

In the past year, I’ve worked on a few quilts: my first quilt from a layer cake (that now migrates between my couch and bed at home), two shop samples that are hung very, very high on the wall to hide the shameful sewing I did, and a few unfinished projects that bounce back and forth between active on my sewing machine and being “on deck.” I can thank my poor attention span for all the back-and-forth!

Here's all my "on deck" projects....will they ever get finished?!

Look familiar? Yup...those are some blocks from City Quilts "City Lot." After sewing my sashing with WAY, WAY TOO BIG seams, every block has been an angry battle to complete. I'm just aiming for "finished" sooner or later. It will be goofy. It will be donated. And that's just fine by me.

If you can remember, I made quite a fuss about one of the store samples I made needing to be perfect, but in retrospect, the pressure of making a store sample does not compare to my current projects — quilts as gifts. I know that one of the joys of quiltmaking is planning a project with a very special person in mind. However, TALK ABOUT PRESSURE!

The first gift quilt I planned was for one of my nieces. She is turning three this Halloween. So, really, she doesn’t care what the quilt looks like, but I DO. It had to be perfect. After a few days of restlessly cruising our patterns, I decided to give up. It was useless. No matter what I chose, I would never feel it was perfect. So I just went home, chopped up a few fat quarters and sewed them together. It’s basic, but it’s done! One of our mottoes around here is “better done than perfect” and I think I learned my lesson. I am just finishing up that quilt for her birthday present this year. Look familiar? I used it for our Binding Blog photos.

It was a good thing I learned my lesson on stress-free gift giving, because there’s no way I could have said no when my very own dad asked me to make him a quilt. Being my dad (and a guy), I can’t say I expect him to be disappointed when my corners don’t match. Heck, he probably won’t even be able to tell (as long as he doesn’t show it to my mom, who is a quilter!)

Wonder where I get my love for animals from? My dad raised these chickens from when they were chicks. They loved him!

Even with the pressure off on the actual sewing, I still felt the fabric and pattern needed to be tops. My dad is retired and is lucky to live in a beautiful lakeside cabin in Northern Wisconsin. He spends his afternoons in his rusty old rowboat, fishing on the lake. My mom has the house fully decorated with all kinds of Northwoods details — bear figurines, “gone fishin’” signs, and even a wooden raccoon hanging off the side of the house. They’re cabin people. I knew my dad’s quilt would need to fit my mom’s decorating as well as my dad’s interests. BINGO! We have trout fabric.

I’m mid-project and am excited about how it’s turning out. I’m using one of our free patterns meant for a layer cake. It goes together pretty quick and really features the fish fabric. When I get around to finishing the top, I’ve got plans for some fish-quilting and cozy minky on the back. Northern Wisconsin gets wicked cold in the winter and I’m sure there’ll be nothing better than warming up by a fire under this quilt with my dad.

Phase 1. I cut all my fabric and matched my "centers" with my "borders." It's kind of hard to believe this small stack of fabric will eventually spread out to make a whole quilt top!

Phase 2. Half of my "borders" sewn to my "centers." My fiance was at a hockey game, so there was NOTHING to distract me from making serious progress on this project. Onwards!

Phase 3. PEOPLE! I am not a fast sewer, but I think I had Della's wind beneath my wings as I was sewing these blocks. I cut all my fabric and sewed ALL my blocks in the same night. It's kind of a record for me. I think I'll go ahead and give myself a little pat on my back. The hardest part, as always, was strategically arranging all my blocks while deterring my curious dog from laying right on top of everything.

Fin!

P.S. I was foolish to think this would be my last gift-quilt for a while. I recently got the news that BOTH of my older brothers’ wives are pregnant. And here’s the kicker — one of them is having TWINS. Looks like I’ve got three sets of baby quilts and baby gear to whip up before next summer. Any suggestions to get me started?

What are some perfect quilts you’ve made for your special people?

– Posted by Stacy

Binding Tutorial

Binding is one of our most popular topics for our in-store free seminars. It can be a daunting last hurdle to finishing your quilts, but we promise it gets better with practice. There are many ways to do binding and our favorite method is simple and easy. This post will show our method step-by-step so you’re binding like a pro.

We don’t require any special tools except maybe a calculator. Now, don’t get frightened, but we are going to do a little math! For those of you that just had a panicked flashback of pop quizzes in high school math class — don’t worry. We’ll make it easy! Promise.

Before doing any of the cutting and sewing of binding, we first need to calculate how much yardage you’ll need to make the binding.

A. Measure the quilt’s dimensions. Take a deep breath…time for a little simple math. We’ll start off by figuring the number of linear inches of binding you’ll need.

• (width + length) x 2 + 24” = linear inches

• EXAMPLE: (60” + 70”) x 2 + 24” = 284”

• If you’re wondering why we add the 24”, it’s because you’ll need more than just the number of linear inches around your quilt…you’ll lose a bit in the corners, plus you’ll want a bit of a tail on each end to overlap your start/finishing point.

B. Once you get the number of linear inches you’ll need, we calculate the number of strips to cut. To do this, we divide the number of linear inches by 40” and round up to a whole number.

• Linear inches/40” = number of strips (round up!)

• EXAMPLE: 260”/40” = 6.5 → 7 strips

• We divide by 40” because there are about 40 inches of useable fabric once you trim the selvages per each width of fabric. Each strip you cut will be about 40” long.

C. Lastly, to determine the amount of yardage needed, multiply the number of strips by the width of the strip. We use 2 ½” strips for all our binding.

• # of strips x 2.5″ = inches of fabric needed

• EXAMPLE: 7 strips x 2.5″ = 17.5”

Now that you have that figured, the real fun begins. Time to cut and sew!

1. Once you have the appropriate yardage of fabric for your binding, cut it into the number of needed 2 ½” strips. Be careful how you cut! Cut exactly perpendicular to the fold, otherwise you will end up with a “V”-shaped strip.

I used the lines on my ruler to be sure I cut at a perfect 90 degree angle with the fold.

Note: You don’t need to cut off the selvage just yet — you will be trimming them off as we join the strips together.

2. Join all the strips with a diagonal seam.

• Place the two fabric strips right sides together, perpendicular to each other. Let the ends overlap each other as shown in the photo. This will allow you to see the corners where you need to sew. Secure strips with a straight pin. Once you have your strips pinned in place, you can “check your work” by folding your strip over and see if your seam will give you a straight strip of fabric.

In case it wasn't clear, I've noted what the right side of the binding fabric I used is, and what the wrong side is since they look similar.

By folding over where I pined, I can see that when I sew a seam, my strip will make a straight line.

• Using a fabric pen or pencil, mark the top strip on the diagonal, beginning and ending the line at the corner created where the two strips intersect each other. Sew strips together on the marked line.

• Continue to join your strips until you have the binding length required for your quilt – this is the linear inches calculated in Step A.

• Trim away all excess fabric, leaving about a 1/4″ seam allowance to the right of the seam lines. Press the seams allowance open.

Trim off your excess fabric -- including the selvages.

3. Fold the strip lengthwise and press with wrong sides together.

4. Trim your quilt. After the quilt is quilted, trim the excess backing and batting from the quilt.  We leave a scant 1/8″ of batting and backing around the quilt edge.

5. Next, unfold the left end of the binding strip and lay flat with the wrong-side facing up. Make a 45º cut to the left – see photo for the direction of the cut.  Fold in about ⅜” on this angled end (wrong sides together) and press. Fold the whole strip in half again and re-press. Trim off the extra little “flap” (see photo).

Here's what the left end of your binding should look like when you're finished.

6. Start sewing your binding onto the quilt.

• Starting in the middle of one of the quilt sides, align the raw edges of the binding with the edge of the quilt top (not the back!) – you will have a little batting showing.  Pin binding to the project at the beginning of the binding in a few places.

Note: I did not use batting on this quilt, so make sure there is a little bit of batting showing when you align your binding with your quilt top!

• About ½” in from where the double thickness of binding starts, begin sewing using a ¼” seam allowance.

Start sewing about where I am pointing.

7. Sew around your entire project mitering the corners.

• To miter a corner, stop sewing ¼” before the corner of the quilt and backstitch a few stitches.

• Fold the unsewn tail of quilt binding straight up, positioning it so that its right edge is even with the next side of the quilt to be bound (Side B) and perpendicular to the side you just sewed the binding to (Side A).

• Next, fold the binding down, with the top of the fold flush with the edge of Side A and raw edges aligned with Side B. Pin the fold in place.

• Start sewing at the top edge of the binding. Then sew one or two backstitches before you continue sewing down Side B of the quilt.

8. Continue around your quilt until you are close to the starting point.  Stop a few inches before your starting point.  You do not need to remove it from your machine.  Put the needle of the sewing machine down into the binding to help anchor it while you cut the end.

9. Lay the end of the binding over the starting point and cut the end (using sharp scissors) at an angle (a 45 degree angle to the right) and nest into the tube of the binding. Make the binding lay flat – edges flush with the edge of the quilt. Continue sewing until you are past your starting point.

10. Once your binding has been machine stitched to your quilt, press the binding from the front of the quilt and down over the back.  You should be covering up the stitches and your binding should be full of batting.  Hand stitch in place using a blind hem stitch or ladder stitch about 8 stitches to the inch.  Use binding clips to help hold your binding in place while sewing by hand.  When you reach a corner, place a few stitches in the miter on both sides of the binding.  Also make sure you stitch the join closed.  And you’re done!

– Posted by Della & Stacy

Top Ten Notions

Without notions, quilting would be a laborious task (well, more than it already is…) These useful objects are the tools that make your sewing more efficient, more accurate and ultimately more fun! As a quilt shop, we do our best to carry all the top notions — both the essentials and the unique ones that help you with some of the more advanced techniques. Our girls have tried it all, and through years of trial and error we’ve found the best of the best.

So here’s our list of the top ten essential notions. You aren’t livin’ life to the fullest if you don’t have one of each of these. Trust us — they will make a difference!

THE ESSENTIALS
Havel’s Snip-Eze
These snips are lightweight, have a curved blade and are super easy to use. Unlike most snips, you don’t have to search for the finger-holes. Just pick ‘em up and squeeze!

OLFA Ergonomic Rotary Cutter
These comfy cutters come in 45mm or 60mm sizes and have fantastic safety features. When not in the “locked” position, these cutters only expose the blade when you squeeze the trigger to cut. The advantage of an extra sharp blade? Quick, clean cut edges.

O’Lipfa Lip-Edge Ruler
I won’t cut fabric with anything but this ruler. The lip-edge latches on to your  cutting mat or table to help stabilize each cut. No more slippy-slidey rulers!

Sewline Fabric Pencil
These mechanical-style fabric pencils come in a variety of color choices and use refillable erasers and lead. They are manufactured well and will last you forever.  The best part? Unlike traditional pencils that need sharpening, your lead will always be sharp and make an incredibly accurate line.

Collins Crystal Glass Head Pins
Throw away all your dull-pointed pins and buy these babies! The fine tips are  sharp and glide through fabric like a knife through butter. Unlike plastic-headed pins, the glass-heads won’t melt when you iron over them! They heads also don’t break or fall off like other, cheaper pins and the ⅜” lengths are pretty  sturdy. They can still bend like all pins can, but you can’t beat all the other great   features. Tip: don’t get the ⅞” length if you can help it. Although the tips are still  sharp and the heads will stay put, the longer length has a greater tendency to bend with normal use.

Magnetic Pincushion
Ok, I know quilters just love making pincushions, but ladies, you have to up your game. These magnetic pincushions will save you time and energy. Rather than  stick each pin into your cushion, you can just toss your pins in the general direction of the magnet and they’ll zip right on there. We have larger magnets for beside your sewing machine, or you can jump on the new trend and get one that clips onto your shirt for a mobile option. (Seriously, these things are a hot item.   We sold twenty-two last Saturday. Twenty-two! They come in a million colors and make great gifts!) Beware! After getting spoiled by the magnet, you’ll start  throwing pins at any pincushion, and they’ll just bounce right off the traditional kind. I do this all the time. It’s embarrassing.

Schmetz Sewing Needle
Simple. Easy. Reliable. We use these and you should too. When was the last time you changed your needle? Can’t remember. It’s probably time to change ‘em out. Just do it!
Binding & Hem Clips
Just like hair clips, these handy notions make hand-sewing binding a bit easier. Just press your binding fabric onto your quilt top and attach some of these throughout, especially at the corners. The best part? You’ll never get stabbed by a million pins if you carry your quilt around. No one likes to bleed on their projects, ladies…

Quilters Glue
Whether you’re doing some applique or need to finish up that binding real quick, quilter’s glue is the answer — it keeps your materials together and washes out when you’re done. There’s a million different uses for this stuff and Quilter’s Choice is our favorite variety.

Triangle Square Up Ruler
These rulers make all kinds of triangles so easy. Half-square, quarter-square…you name it they make it. Don’t fuss anymore – you will honestly make PERFECT triangles every single time.  They come in 6-1/2” and 9-1/2” sizes and have easy to understand instructions included. And unlike thangles, you’ll never “run out” when you’re feverishly finishing up a project at 3 in the morning. All you need is one ruler for the rest of your life — just don’t lose it!

Already have all these? Check our our bonus list of the top five notions that tackle new techniques.

BEYOND THE BASICS
Washable Marker
These are Karen’s favorite. She uses them “liberally” (meaning by the dozen.)  They have many uses but they’re perfect for custom, free motion long arm quilting. Karen can draw on a pattern or trace a stencil/ruler to get a guide for her quilting. Check out her full post on using the washable marker with a Sue Pelland Leaves Galore Large Ruler here.

Angler
This is Della’s favorite sewing machine tool — it makes piecing 45 degree angles easier and more accurate (as the name suggests.) The lines on the clear plastic tool act as a guide when sewing half-square triangles, mitered corners, Flying Geese, Snowballs, or diagonal ends and corners.

Rotating Mat
Have a lot of pieces to cut? This ruler is great, especially for using a triangle square up ruler. Just place the fabric and ruler on top of the rotating mat (maybe use some  fabric grips to keep everything in place) and make your first slice. Then, just rotate the mat to cut all the way around without having to move your fabric.

Flying Geese Ruler, Tri-Recs Ruler and Dresden Ruler
These three rulers take the guesswork out of making these advanced quilting techniques. Each comes with clear instructions to make your impressive blocks faster and more accurate.

   

Perfect Circles
The name says it all. Each package includes 15 different circle sizes (a small circle or large circle option) for hand and machine appliqued circles.

  

– Posted by Stacy